birding...

Nene Branta sandwicensis ©Christian Melgar http://www.birdinghawaii.co.uk

At 2500 miles from the nearest landmass, Hawaii is the World`s most isolated archipelago. The volcanic islands located in the centre of the North Pacific Ocean are some of the most beautiful and diverse islands anywhere on Earth. Geologically the Islands are unique; the Hawaii Islands have the wettest spot on Earth (on Kauai); the World`s largest dormant volcano (on Maui); the World`s tallest Sea Cliffs (on Molokai) and the World`s most active volcano (on Hawaii). Habitats range from alpine mountains, lowland deserts and barren lava flows to tropical rainforests, wetlands and low lying sand islands.

The Hawaiian Island Chain stretches 1,523 miles across the Pacific Ocean from Hawaii in the southeast to Kure Atoll in the northwest. Although the Chain comprises many islands and reefs most visitors to Hawaii will visit one of the main Islands of Kauai, Oahu, Maui, Molokai, Lanai and Hawaii. Access to the other islands is strictly controlled as most are within the Hawaiian Islands National Wildlife Refuge, which provides habitat for millions of seabirds, several endemic land birds, as well as Hawaiian Monk Seals, Green Sea Turtles and many tropical fish.

The weather in the Islands is, as would be expected of a tropical location, generally warm and pleasant, although it can be much colder at high elevations, such as Haleakala Crater on Maui. The windward coasts of the Islands tend to get the greater share of rainfall, leaving the more sheltered leeward sides dryer and often, therefore, more barren areas.

Being such an isolated group of islands relatively few species managed to make it to Hawaii, but of those that did 90% were found nowhere else on Earth. Birds were of course one group able to make the long journey and although the Islands may not boast a huge list of bird species (currently about 285 species); it is impressive for such a remote location and the variety is certainly enough to keep even the most avid birder interested.

As would be expected of an isolated island chain, seabirds are one of the most conspicuous groups of birds present, and many of the 80 species recorded so far can be seen even in the Main Islands. Albatross, Frigatebirds, Boobies, Terns, Noddies, Tropicbirds, Shearwaters and Petrels, including the endemic Newell`s Shearwater and Hawaiian Dark-rumped Petrel can all be seen with relative ease from land. A pelagic from one of Hawaii`s harbours will provide better views of the breeding species, as well as increase the chance of spotting some of the scarcer and rarer migrant seabirds that do not breed in Hawaii, but pass through to and from their breeding/wintering grounds.

Endemic wetland species are represented by three species of Wildfowl – Hawaiian Duck or Koloa, Laysan Duck and Hawaiian Goose or Nene [the State bird of Hawaii]. The Hawaiian Duck is present on several islands, though is common only on Kauai. Laysan Duck is confined to the Island of Laysan in the NW Chain. Nene are recognised by most people as a conservation success story and birds can once again be seen on several of the Main Islands, although its long-term survival is still uncertain. More than 38 species of migrant Ducks and Geese have been recorded from Hawaii as well and although many wetlands have been destroyed or altered there remains (just) enough habitat to make migration worthwhile for several species. Species occur mainly from the continental United States, but Eurasian species also occur with some frequency.

Only one species of Shorebird breeds in Hawaii – the Hawaiian Black-necked Stilt, an endemic sub-species and can be found on all the Main Islands. Many species of both American and Eurasian shorebirds have been recorded in the Islands, some annually and some just once, but almost anything is possible, borne out by the impressive number seen – 46 species. The endemic Hawaiian Coot and Hawaiian race of the Common Moorhen are also easily seen on ponds and wetlands around the State.

Due to the remoteness of the Islands only a few passerine species were able to make the huge ocean crossing and it is estimated that as few as 15 original colonist species accounted for over 100 endemic bird species which evolved there. At least 35 of these had become extinct before Western contact and a further 23 or so have become extinct since that time – resulting in Hawaii often being called the extinction capital of the World, a rather dubious honour! Humans directly or indirectly, in almost all cases, are the main factor, which have contributed to the demise of so many of Hawaii`s unique species.

The most amazing evolution was that of the Hawaiian Honeycreepers (family Fringillidae, subfamily Drepanidinae); which exposed to a variety of food sources and habitat types evolved into more than 50 unique species and sub-species. At least three other families of passerine also evolved including Thrushes, Flycatchers and Warblers. The Australian Honeyeaters (family Meliphagidae) also reached Hawaii and radiated into many species.

Birders to Hawaii today still have an opportunity to see some of the World`s rarest and most beautiful species. As well as the numerous wetland species and seabirds there are over twenty five extant endemic forest species including a Buteo Hawk (Hawaiian Hawk); a Corvid (Hawaiian Crow); two Thrushes (Puaiohi and Omao); an Owl (Hawaiian Short-eared owl) and the amazingly varied honeycreepers such as I`iwi, `Apapane, `Akiapola`au, `Amakihi, Palila and `Akohekohe.

Birding in Hawaii is generally easy, with most areas accessible by road or path. Nearly all the endemic forest birds are confined to the higher elevation native forests, where mosquitoes carrying avian Malaria are fewer, but in some areas these birds can be seen at lower elevation and in non-native vegetation. Many of the lowland wetlands, ponds and reservoirs, coastal areas with high bird populations and important forest areas are contained within National Parks, Special Protection Areas or National Wildlife Refuges and help to protect Hawaii`s unique flora and fauna, whilst also giving visitors the chance to see native species.

A visit to the Hawaiian Islands to view endemic avian fauna is a very special experience and one which should be enjoyed and appreciated, whilst bearing in mind the terrible damage that man has caused and is only now beginning to redress.